Tuesday, 14 August 2012

Queen of Hearts Bodice Toile

Henrician gown from the The Tudor Tailor

I'm very lucky that the patterns in The Tudor Tailor are all sized for a 36-inch bust (my size!) so they should fit without too much alteration.  I thought it would be prudent to make a toile of at least the bodice and sleeve to check the fit.

I scaled up the pattern pieces on some scrap paper, added a half-inch seam allowance and cut them out in calico.

Henrician gown and kirtle from The Tudor Tailor

The original pattern has a separate kirtle which is worn under the gown and has a boned bodice, fastening at the front.  The front bodice of the dress hinges over this and is pinned at the side.  To save myself the trouble of making a kirtle, I'm going to put a zip down the back of the bodice, and lightly bone the bodice.

The first fitting (which I forgot to take a photo of, sorry) was much too big.  I wanted the front to be really tight, so I took about 1.5 inches off either side of the front panel, and after taking in the side seams about half an inch each, it fitted perfectly!

The back (yes I'm wearing pyjamas!).  It's pretty tight at the waist, but I want it to be squeezy.  I added one sleeve so I could see how that went, and I'm happy with it.  My shoulders just fit.

Next post: Sewing the dress

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